For the first six months I was on Cape, I lived in a very
chilly Yarmouth Port furnished basement. I was always cold, always complaining,
always wearing Uggs and my down coat in the house or reading in bed under an
electric blanket. But I loved Yarmouth Port, and still do; when I see some of
the magnificent pictures I took walking around, I have the same visceral
response a thirteen year old has for her favorite pop star. For me, that was
Ringo. I met him once in New York, I also met John Lennon, Bill Clinton, and Ronnie Wood from the Rolling Stones, although Ringo had my heart.
But I digress. The story goes, after several years of
visiting a friend who’d moved to the Cape from Gramercy Park, I received a call
from my New York landlord offering to pay me to relinquish my rent-controlled
Soho apartment. It was not that big jackpot I’d had fantasies about, but it was
enough to start fresh and frankly more money than I was ever going to put
together on my own slaving away for wages. It was also rather odd how my
landlord called late in the very same day I finished typing the transcript of a
hearing that was central to the memoir I was working on at the time, and, I now
see, the reason why I was still in New York. As soon as I was off the phone
with him, I called my friend on the Cape and she told me a salesgirl at a cute
shop I liked in Yarmouth Port had quit her job that morning. So I emailed the
storeowner my resume and jumped on the bus the next morning. The storeowner
hired me, and a half hour later I signed the lease for the chilly basement,
which was a ten-minute walk to the store whether I passed the old sea captain
houses in town or went through the trees along the glorious tidal marshes.
I was stunned by the beauty. I also slept a lot; I’d only
had six weeks to empty out the four-room apartment I had lived in for thirty
years. The worst was the room I used as a studio, it was crammed with three
decades of art, most of which I was about to sell or destroy, and an
embarrassing amount supplies and junk I’d hoarded over the years. More
memorable though was tearing up thirty years worth of journals. I did it by
hand, it took several days, my wrists hurt for a month but it was very
liberating. All I brought to the Cape besides the art I kept and a ton of
clothes, was my parrot, my computer, my little red Herman Miller chair, an
insanely expensive twin mattress that I used as a headboard in my next three
addresses, assorted knick knacks and two irreplaceable rugs along with some
embroidered shawls and pillows. Still, it took six of us an hour to pack the
truck. There was a quiet moment alone as I swept one last time; I had to leave
it, as the landlord said, broom clean to collect the buy out money, and then I
was gone.
This will be my fifth Cape Cod winter, and while I’ll never
forget my first love, chilly old Yarmouth Port, I’m happier here and accustomed
to the weather in Provincetown. It suits me, perhaps it’s my Irish roots, I
have no problem with a wicked thick fog.